When it comes to cheap holiday destinations in the vicinity, it doesn’t get much better than Tioman. We went last weekend and had a blue whale of a time. We spent three days snorkeling in the bluest waters of the South China sea, drinking the coldest duty free beer by the beach and getting high on grass we scored from the locals. Add in a whole lot of ramli burgers, a few encounters with big-ass monitor lizards and a runaway bike that refused to stop and you get one heckuva holiday.
We decided to go on a whim; a wholly last minute operation this. R & S had been to Tioman before, but job dissatisfaction and the rigours of investment banking had taken their toll, so they needed another getaway. D came along for the beer. D is a beer whore. He loves any activity as long as there is beer involved. You could gouge out his eyes and bugger him with a red-hot poker as long as you gave him a cold one while you’re at it. If he had to choose the manner of his death, he’d choose death by alcohol poisoning -beer overdose. He prays to beer in the morning, drinks a few before lunch and washes them down with a few more at dinnertime. He gets withdrawal symptoms if he stays more than three days without beer. He….well, you get the picture.
Anyway, it was only with the vaguest of plans that we packed our shit into duffel bags and headed off to the border on Friday night. Snorkel. Drink Beer. Repeat. That was the plan. (D’s plan was Drink beer. Snor-drinkbeer-kel. Drink beer. And if we had more time, sneak in a few more cold ones.) We reached Mersing around dawn and found the ferry dock jampacked with locals who had availed of the Independence Day holiday to take their vacations.
Accommodation was going to be hard to find, it looked like. Luckily a quick traversal of the local resorts secured us an air-con cabin at dirt-cheap prices. And it was right on the beach too. R,S and D hadn’t slept a wink all night, mostly because our cabbie from JB was a speed-demon with a death-wish who took unnerving blind turns in the mist at 80 miles an hour. Me, I can sleep through a Force 10 gale, tied upside down on a mechanical bull. Suicidal cabbies – no problem; slept right through it. Anyway, these guys – tired as they are, can’t wait to take a dip in the sea. The gung-ho force is especially strong in them; their hyperactivity midi chlorian count is off the charts. Me, I need all the sleep I can get. So I pack in a few winks while they go swim in the sea .By the time they come back, I’m fully recharged. We hire mopeds( S&D can ride), rent snorkeling gear and ride to the Marine Park, a little jetty by the pier where the fish are plentiful, thanks mostly to the generous helpings of food that the tourists throw into the water.
The rest of the gang are seasoned snorkelers, but I take a couple of minutes to adjust to the unnatural feeling of breathing through the pipe in the mouth while submerged. I get the hang of it soon enough and boy, is it beautiful! There are fish less than a foot away in every direction. A stunning panoply of splendiferous multi-color swimming away in fluid effortless motion. I have a friend who once told me that Nat Geo, Discovery etc. conjure up all the marine life on their programs with CGI. Environmental pollution has depleted deep sea populations to the point of extinction, but big media needs to have pretty pictures of colourful fishies to make money, so a vast conspiracy ensures that special effects and CGI recreate these beautiful creatures for our TV screens. It did sound fishy, but the guy had sown the salmon of doubt, and I was a tad shaken. Now with all these fish swimming happily into my mask, that salmon breathed its last and I breathed a sigh of relief ( through my mouth, into the tube).
Having completed our ablutions with the fish, we returne to our hotel and on the way back, on a whim, I offer to ride the bike. “I have cycle balance, macha. I think I’ll do fine.” D would have no part of it, would not ride pillion. Thanks for the vote of confidence dude! Turned out his fears were well-founded though, as my biking skills were far from perfect. A slight turn of the accelerator propels the crazy vehicle into a jolt and all my efforts are concentrated on keeping the damn thing going straight. I vainly reach for where the brake should be and find myself clawing air; it turns out the brake is near my leg. Luckily the bike peters out and I come to an ignominious stop a few inches away from a tree. There go my Evil Knievel dreams! We resume with D riding again and me on pillion, hang-dog faced. A slight detour into a dirt road with a dead end shows us three Komodo dragons in quick succession, lazily sunning themselves in the sweltering heat. At the sound of our bikes, they scuffle frenetically away and D too desperately swerves to avoid them as they crossed our path. He’s terrified of snakes, lizards and any and all manner of creepy crawly thingy. Pussy wuss!
On our return to the hotel, we chance upon our neighbours, a gang of full blooded Tamilian males from KL. D does the conversing, being the only fluent Tamil speaker. I add my own two cents worth occasionally, in pidgin Tamil that would have Thiruvalluvar twisting in his tomb. This propitious conversation secures us a snorkeling deal; our avuncular Tamilian friend has taken D under his thumb and promises to get him hooked up with a snorkeling crew at a bargain price. “Tomorrow at 10,” he says, “Don’t be late.” We okay the deal and then decide to take a much needed catnap. I wholeheartedly concur; far be it from me to refuse an offer of the odd four hundred winks. We wake up well past sunset and go out on an alcohol junket. Cruising the booze lanes in the duty free shop, we come upon Johnnie Walker’s finest Green Label, type: vatted malt, age: 15 years , provenance: Scotland. Me and Johnnie, match made in heaven, gay as that sounds. We look around the sleepy island’s 3-4 restaurants, find a chap barbecuing seafood and order up a storm of sting ray, sotong and a few fish. The night seems perfect, couldn’t get any better. But when it rains, it pours. Halfway through our booze session (incidentally, seafood n Scotch are a great combination) S disappears for a whole thirty minutes. When he reappears, he’s got a Malay chap in tow and good news on his lips. “ Wanna get high?” he asks. As if there could be more than one possible answer to that question. The kind stranger lights up a spliff, takes a toke and passes it around. The circle of marijuana under starry skies with an auspicious wind. Our resourceful Tamilian neighbors have secured a TV from somewhere and are now lying on their verandah, chugging beer and watching a porno right in plain sight of everybody. You can take the man of out Tamil Nadu, but you can’t take the Tamil Nadu out of the man. Another spliff later we’re dog tired, pissed as newts and ready to hit the sack. It’s 4 am. It’s doubtful we’ll wake up in time for snorkeling tomorrow. D promises to wake everyone, but in his advanced state of inebriation, it is just empty bravado. We’re too drunk to care, we pass out in a state of grace.
I hear the alarm at 9 the next morning and attempt to wake D. A string of expletive falls fluidly from his lips, and he abuses my entire family tree, third cousins and all. That’s it, snorkelling’s out. I’m kinda relieved, and fall asleep again. Ah,blissful slumber! Two seconds later, I’m jolted out of my sweet reverie by loud insistent banging on the door. Opening it, bleary-eyed and baked as a cake, I find a large man blacker than the Earl of Hell’s waistcoat breathing heavily and near apoplectic. “ Already 10 o’ clock. You’re supposed to be on the beach. Boat is already here.” Our porn-watching Tamilian neighbor has turned up to save the day. Taking command of the situation, he brings us out of intoxication with sharp, stinging Tamil rebuke; the tone of his voice brooks no argument. We wearily trudge the 20 steps down to the beach, climb aboard the boat and cradle our heads in our hands. A bleeding headache reminds me for the nth time that drinking is not good for me. Luckily the wind in our faces wakes us right the fuck up, and by the time we reach our first snorkeling spot, we’re all gung ho and ready to go.
Snorkeling is da shit. The waters are crystal, the fish are everywhere and beautiful, the ocean floor is stunning, right out of Discovery channel. We see forests of coral, clown fish swimming in and out of anemones and jelly fish floating ominously; all told, it’s a sensory overload of overwhelming beauty that must be seen to be believed. We cover four spots in all, each one more breathtaking than the next.
Returning to the hotel, we catch up on much needed sleep. I can’t sleep, so I go out and find a local sitting at the hotel reception with a guitar. He’s got a songbook with chords, and the songs are mostly classics. He doesn’t know the words, so he urges me to sing along to such hits as Killing me Softly and Hotel California. I realize how painfully inadequate my vocal cords are suited to the task of producing anything remotely mellifluous; all that comes out is a raucous cacophony of sound that drives the birds from the trees. The Tamilian porn-watching neighbor pretends like I’m not there; he’s still pissed about this morning.
The sun sets on a brilliant evening. Cicadas whisper the meaning of life to each other. The bats come out of their topsy-turvy sleep to hunt; sonar-assisted sustenance. Batman dons his cape and cowl and begins his long vigil atop Gotham’s gargoyles, hunting human trash. Fishermen put their boats out to sea; the catch is more plentiful at night. Jesus Christ and his fishers of men retire; temptation is especially hard to overcome after dusk, it’d be like preaching to the bats. The sundry shacks on the beach start serving alcohol and playing contemporary tunes – the alcohol is good (is that a redundancy?), the music is crap (this decade was horrible for music).
We go out to make some important acquisitions. Crate of beer. Check. Barbecued seafood. Check. 4kg bag of ice to keep beer cold. Check. Rolling Tobacco with paper. Check. Having made these essential purchases, we repair to the beach, dig hollows into the sand and proceed to make ourselves comfortable. There’s a beer in our hands, and more beer in the ice bucket (a converted dustbin). God’s in his heaven and all’s right with the world. The night is young and full of possibility. This promise blossoms into some very real mind-enhancing material a few hours later, when the special consignment we ordered last night finally arrives. 4 joints of home grown brought in by boat from one of the off-lying islands. We have scored, nigga. Da milfweed is in the building. So we roll up the joints and smoke the hell out of them. I’ve had better, but it’s good.
“ They should legalize weed man. Someday, in a free world… This is how things ought to be.”
“ Correct macha. I’m going to start a global rebellion. ….Like Gandhi.”
“ Gandhi didn’t start shit. He was a weak ass punk nigga”
“Hey, you see that shape in the trees? Looks like Benjamin Franklin’s face….”
“Fuck you talkin’ about? That’s Rajnikanth smoking a cigarette”
“I’m so stoned.”
“That’s just the placebo effect. You just think you’re stoned.”
“ Would I do this if I weren’t stoned?” <>
“ Macha, I see it now da. That’s Benjamin Franklin’s face…”
We agree that we’re not completely zonked out, but somewhere in the happy realm between mildly buzzed and properly baked and go to bed.
Next morning, S requisitions the hotel’s modest kitchen to make us breakfast, after which we cycle to the marine park and snorkel some more. I see a shell on the top of this submerged table and I ask D to dive in forr it. He’ll have nothing to do with it. “ There are sea urchins nearby,” he lamely offers. R got bitten by a sea urchin on her last trip, and she’s been propagandist for the ruthlessness and ferocity of these marine predators ever since, so D’s spooked as a sheep about ‘em. He also adds, showing great imagination “ Macha, there might be an animal inside the shell da.” Faced with his spinelessness, I am forced to dive in myself to retrieve the shell. It is a good 8 feet deep, and it takes a couple of attempts before I finally come up gasping for air, the shell firmly in my grasp. It’ll make a good ashtray. D is a bit flustered when I call him a pussy wuss and also very taken aback that there is no ‘animal’ inside the shell.
We return to Mersing and hitch a ride with a guy who runs an event management company. He’s got a van and he agrees to take us to JB for a fraction of the price the cut-throat taxi drivers (those indefatigable entrepreneurs) are charging. It’s been a great trip and what’s more, we have three bottles of duty free booze in our bags. Hurray for cheap duty free liquor. Our joy is short-lived. We are accosted at emigration after a routine bag scan reveals our booze bottles. Nobody tells us nothing as two uniformed men lead us into an ante-room. There a cheerful middle-aged man takes our passport details, the history of the alcohols involved and apologizes for the fact that there is nothing he can do for us. “It’s the rules,” he explains. “We have a system.” We are led away to another building and put into a bare white room with a single bench in the centre. It’s unsettlingly reminiscent of a prison cell. They tell us to wait, lock the door and go away. I’m starting to feel like Kafka’s protagonist from The Trial. The door opens and a young, dapper officer comes in. I’m afraid we’re going to be strip searched. I know people attempt to smuggle drugs up their…you know. One hears things. “You’re free to go. You just have to pay the tax,” the smiling young officer says. The tax is double what we pay for the booze. We enquire as to whether we can just surrender the booze instead of paying tax. No go. Shell it out. Well, at least we didn’t get fined half a grand. Considering my life, it’s a miracle I got off this easy.
We cab it back home and buy some chicken rice for our dog Daisy. Yes we have a dog. A bitch actually. Daisy pretends not to recognize me. Damn these bitches and their play -hard –to- get ways.